The Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony: A Guide to Abol, Tona and Bereka

Sudo Menu Editorial · 2 November 2026

Ask anyone in Addis Ababa where coffee comes from and you will probably hear the story of Kaldi, the goat herder from the highlands of Kaffa who noticed his goats dancing after nibbling red berries from a shrub. Whether or not the legend is true, coffee in Ethiopia is far more than a drink. It is a daily ritual, an act of hospitality and, for many families, the most important conversation of the day. The traditional coffee ceremony, known in Amharic as buna maflat, is the clearest expression of that culture.

The setting

A ceremony usually begins with the host spreading fresh grass or flowers on the floor and lighting frankincense. The scent of incense fills the room while a small charcoal stove heats up. Cups without handles, called sini, are arranged on a low wooden tray known as a rekebot. Popcorn, roasted barley or bread is often served on the side, so guests have something to share while they wait.

None of this is rushed. A full ceremony can take more than an hour, and that is the point. Coffee is an excuse to sit together, talk about family, discuss news and settle small disputes. Turning down an invitation to coffee can feel like turning down the friendship itself.

Roasting at the table

Unlike a cafe espresso, the beans start green. The host washes them, then roasts them in a flat pan over the coals, shaking constantly so they colour evenly. As the beans crack and darken, the host walks the smoking pan around the room so that every guest can wave the aroma towards themselves. It is polite to comment on how good it smells.

The roasted beans are then pounded in a small mortar, the mukecha, with a metal pestle, the zenezena, and the grounds go straight into the jebena, a round-bellied clay pot with a long spout. Water is added and the jebena sits on the coals until it boils up through the neck. The host then lets it rest so the grounds settle, because traditional coffee is never filtered.

Three rounds: abol, tona and bereka

Ethiopian coffee is served in three rounds, and each one has its own name and character.

Abol is the first and strongest round. The host pours from a height in a single continuous stream, filling every cup without stopping, which takes real skill. Abol is rich, thick and aromatic.

Tona is the second round. More water is added to the same grounds, so the coffee is lighter. It is a chance for the conversation to deepen.

Bereka is the third round, and its name means “to be blessed”. Many people believe the third cup carries a blessing for the household, so leaving before bereka is considered a little unlucky. In practice, staying for all three rounds is simply good manners.

Sugar is common, and in some regions salt or spiced butter is added instead. In the countryside you may also see coffee served with a sprig of tena adam (rue), which adds a sharp, herbal note.

The ceremony in modern cafes

Today, most Addis Ababa cafes serve espresso drinks, macchiato and the layered tea-and-coffee drink called spris. Yet many still offer jebena buna, often prepared by a host sitting beside a small charcoal stove near the entrance. Ordering jebena coffee in a cafe is a quick way to taste the ceremony without committing an afternoon to it, although a good cafe will still pour from a height and offer you a second round.

When you see jebena buna on a digital menu, it is worth asking a few questions. Where were the beans grown? Sidama, Yirgacheffe, Guji and Harar each have distinct flavours, from bright and floral to winey and chocolatey. Was the coffee roasted that morning? Fresh roasting is the single biggest factor in how a jebena cup tastes.

Fasting and coffee

Many Ethiopians follow the Orthodox fasting calendar, which rules out animal products on Wednesdays, Fridays and during long fasting seasons. Black jebena coffee and spris are fasting-friendly, while macchiato is not because of the milk. Menus that clearly mark fasting dishes save diners from having to ask, which is why Sudo Menu shows a fasting filter on every menu.

Etiquette in short

• Accept the first cup with both hands, or with your right hand while your left touches your right forearm.
• Compliment the aroma during roasting.
• Stay for all three rounds if you can.
• Never rush the host.

The coffee ceremony is a reminder that, in Ethiopia, coffee was never meant to be taken to go. It is meant to be shared, slowly, with people you care about.